Money Cufff _ A Lemon Squeezy Home

You’ll Need:

-four 3” x 8.5” pieces fabric, mix and match how you please

-one 2.5” strip velcro

-one 4” strip velcro

-buttons or anything else you’d like to embellish with

The way I’m going to show you how to make this seems a little different. You are welcome to adjust theother tutorial for the money cuff to use velcro, but the velcro might just be a little difficult to sew in that way. That is why I chose the way I did for this version—to accommodate the velcro closure. **Just be sure to really cut and sew exactly, as it will definitely help with the final steps and outcome in this tutorial.**

Take two pieces fabric and place right sides together. Do the same with the other two pieces.

Sew around the edges with a 1/4” seam, leaving an opening at one end for turning. Clip corners and turn.

Iron, tucking the openings in, then sew the velcro to the top center of both pieces.

Flip over and sew the velcro onto the same end of each piece.

Place together, matching the velcro and sides, top and bottom, as evenly as possible (this is where the cutting and sewing as exact as possible really matters).

Topstitch closely around the edges, leaving the top portion with the velcro un-sewn. This is where the openings you left for turning get sewn shut.

Reinforce the sides of the velcro opening so it doesn’t rip when opened over and over.

Sew some buttons or other embellishments on, if desired.

Diaper Clutch _ A Lemon Squeezy Home

I know there are tutorials for diaper clutches that have been around everywhere for a few years. I’ve been making mine for three years now, and it’s always a great go-to baby shower gift. Out of everything my friends or family order for me to make, this would be the top one. So I just thought I’d share how I make mine, complete with a pattern download.

I used to make a wipes case to match, with coordinating fabric. Really cute, but I got tired of making them because I always burned my fingers with the glue gun!

First, print out the five pattern pieces. Here, here, here, here, and here. Tape together where indicated.

So cut out the paper patterns and then use each pattern to cut one lining and one outer fabric. See picture below. Also, you need a 3” strip of velcro or a button for the closure. I use velcro because if the clutch is stuffed fuller you don’t have to try and stretch the flap closed to button it and risking ripping something. Pictured above please note that the orange is my back flap outer fabric, the cars is my front of clutch outer fabric, and the brown with signs fabric is the lining. Also, you may use the button to just sew on the top and look like it’s a button closure or just to add interest onto the flap.

Take the flap lining fabric and the outer fabric of the clutch front and decide where you want to sew on the velcro (test it by closing the flap and seeing where you need it to be).

Then sew the velcro down as pictured below:

Place the lining and outer for the front of the clutch right sides together and sew 1/4” seam along the top only.

Flip over, iron, and topstitch just along the top.

Then layer your fabric. Place the flap outer fabric right side with the front of clutch outer fabric, then place the lining pieces right sides together behind that. Since you sewed the front clutch pieces together in the previous step, this should be easy to layer them all together. See picture—the orange is my back flap outer fabric, the cars is my front of clutch outer fabric, and the brown with signs fabric is the lining.

Pin and sew around the flap sides, sides, and bottom of clutch, leaving the top of flap open (where the yellow line is). Use a 1/4” seam, making sure to catch all the layers.

Turn right side out, making sure that the velcro ends up where it needs to be (sometimes you might accidentally pull it through wrong and think you messed it up when you actually just have to try again).

Tuck and iron in the raw edges of the top flap opening about 1/4”.

Topstitch.

You can also topstitch around the sides of the flap as well. Or even around the entire clutch but I don’t ever do that just because all the layers are already sewn together.

And now it’s ready to go to the cute little newborn and his momma! I can’t get over how small these shoes are! Little Miss B (two years old) kept wanting to wear these size 2 shoes today and of course there was no way that would happen. Babies grow too fast!

Ruffle scarf

From MADE

Fabric Choice:
Use a very light-weight cotton, sear sucker, knit or linen; fabrics that seem to "breathe" and will give your scarf a bounce. (If you use knit, you don't need to do anything to the edges. Just leave them raw. Your project time just got cut in half!)

You need about a 1/2 yard of fabric for the measurements listed below.
My fabric was purchased on clearance at M&L Fabrics in Anaheim, Calif. It's a very light-weight searsucker.

Cut strips of fabric so that you end up with one long strip that's about 125 x 6 inches (318 x 15 cm). I cut out three long strips and sewed them together on the ends.
Serge all the way around the outside of your entire scarf, ends and sides. If you don't have a serger or if you want a more polished look, you don't need to serge. Instead, iron all the sides over about 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and then skip to the next step.
Iron over all the edges of your scarf about a 1/2 inch:

It should look something like this:
Sew this "hem" down, all the way around the scarf:
Here's your scarf, ready to be ruffled:
To get the ruffle, we're using Elastic Thread. Simple!

NOTE: IF THE ELASTIC THREAD is NOT gathering up on your scarf, a few things you can try:
* Spray your scarf with water and ironing. This usually does the trick.
* You may need to adjust your bobbin tension(esp if you have a BROTHER machine). See this tutorial HERE.
* You can make a scarf without using Elastic Thread. See our Summer Scarf, Version 2 below.

You can Elastic Thread at most sewing stores in the notions area, or online (about $2). For very detailed info on sewing with Elastic Thread, please see our Summer Vacation Dress and Shortie Pattern. But this tutorial should tell you all you need to know for your scarf.

Okay, so wind the elastic thread around your bobbin. Not too tight, not too loose, just somewhere in the middle. And load it into your machine:
With normal thread on the top of your machine, you're ready to gather. Start in the middle of your scarf (make sure you are sewing on the TOP of your scarf, the nicer looking part). Do a stay stitch (back and forth stitch at the beginning). And just start sewing down in a straight-ish line. Don't worry about drawing a line on your scarf. Just eyeball it. It's going to be all gathered up and ruffled when you're done, so if you're a little off, no one will know.
Watch the fabric gather up behind you. I love it every time!
Continue to the end and do another stay stitch.
Then, repeat this one more time, doing another line of elastic thread about 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch from the first line. Don't worry if it's not completely centered on your scarf.
And voila, you're done!
You can add more or less lines if you'd like. Here are my observations after making 2 scarves :
* Why not just sew ONE line of Elastic Thread? I found that doing one line felt too weak, like it was going to snap. Two gave it more strength.
* I also tried it with multiple lines which spread further out on the scarf but it's a totally different look. It won't ruffle and twist as it does in the photos here. It will lay more flat and look like a shirred scarf.

Okay, tie it around your neck! (no special method here, just one simple tie, like you're getting ready to tie shoelaces).
It should look like this on the front:
and this on the back:
with lots and lots of summer ruffles in between!

Fitted sheet

From MADE

You'll need:
* 2 yards of fabric
* 80 inches (204 cm) of skinny 1/4 inch elastic

* Cut out a rectangle that's: 45 x 67 inches (114.5 x 171 cm)
* Fold that into fourths (fold it in half and in half) and cut an 8 x 8 in (20.5 x 20.5 cm) square out of the corners, so that your fabric looks like this:
Another way to do this (if you're making multiple sheets), is to cut out a pattern piece that's 1/4 the size of your sheet. It looks like this (or the state of Utah):
Then before cutting anything out, you can fold your fabric into fourths, lay that on top, and easily cut it out.

Okay, with your fabric cut, let's start sewing.

* Take the two sides of one corner and bring right sides together. Pin them and sew down the side. This is creating a "pocket" of sorts, to go around the corners of the mattress. Do this to all four corners of the sheet:
* Serge the seams, zigzag or leave the seams raw.

* Serge around the entire outside of the sheet. This makes is easy to create a casing for the elastic. If you don't have a serger, just iron your fabric over 1/4 inch all the way around and then continue to the next step....

* Iron under the entire edge of the sheet. You are creating a casing, to string very skinny elastic through.
* Sew down the casing. You don't need to pin around the entire sheet before you sew (that takes too long) but DO pin a start and stop point so that you leave an opening to get the elastic In and Out. Start sewing from the START point, all the way around the STOP point:
* Insert the elastic. Taking your 1/4 inch wide elastic, attach a safety pin to one end, and pin the other end to the sheet. Start stringing it through the casing, all the way around till it comes out the other side:
* Overlap the ends and sew them together a few times with a zigzag stitch:
* Then sew your casing closed.
And you're done!